![99 astro van signs of bad ecu diagnostic port 99 astro van signs of bad ecu diagnostic port](https://www.cashcarsbuyer.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/06/Signs-of-a-Faulty-Car-ECU-1200x675.jpg)
The Brake System Analyzer comes with two load cells attached to dial gauges, each with a range of 0-5,000 psi (0-350 BAR). Only caliper bracket bolts were removed and a bleeder was cracked. stick with RWD and your problems will never be as bad as FWD. It took less than an hour to achieve my diagnosis, and without buying a single part. Not like the horror stories you here from other vehicles. been through a lot through the years with them, but it's never that bad. I believe the compressor was starting to freeze up and wasn't letting it crank properly. Posted by Anthony guzman on Jan 07, 2017. Cranks fine starts for two seconds and cuts off and security light is on so no codes. I haven't had that no start condition since. Thinking 99 Chevy Astro van security light on solid band starts with cuts down is there anyway to bypass security without spending a lot of money. I'm not sure if it's related, but I soon after installed a bypass pulley in place of the AC compressor. It will plug into your diagnostic port under the dashboard below the steering wheel. The other port connects to the EGR valve and should only have vacuum when the PCM commands the solenoid to activate.
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Last but not least, the use of OBD2 is more universal and.
99 astro van signs of bad ecu diagnostic port Bluetooth#
OBD1 needs corded connection while OBD2 can be connected hands freely via Bluetooth or wifi. Thus, OBD2 provide better and more standardized vehicle protocols and system checks data. One is a vent port (that vents vacuum to the atmosphere) when the engine is idling. In like manner, OBD2 is an advanced technology improved from OBD1. The other side of the EGR vacuum solenoid has 2 ports. But, then it started after resetting #1 to TDC. In case youre wondering, the letter J is embossed above the vacuum port on the throttle body. Just for the hell of it i reset the first piston to TDC and made sure the timing wasn't off (loose chain) by looking at the rotor, that was fine as well. Everything i checked (the obvious things, rotor, cap, fuel pressure, relay, etc) were fine. Heres a list of things that I have changed in the past 9 months: Spark plugs (A/C Delco), spark. As far as the cranking and no start condition, that happened to me once, I thought it may be the crankshaft positioning sensor, but after checking the Hall effect curve i found it was okay. It runs great on warm days & the Check engine light goes off. Compared to other, more major problems, that other vehicles have these are great. The 4.3L are known to be great engines that last a long time, so long as you change your oil and such. One fuel pump, all you have to do is change the wiring harness when you do it and you're all set (double check ground, of course).